Ksar Ghilane is the southernmost oasis in Tunisia and the eastern edge of the Grand Erg
Oriental — the point where the stony Dahar plateau gives out and the sand sea begins. Thirty-
two of the tours we track stop there, more than at any other single place in the country’s
south, and the reason is simple: it is the one stop that delivers everything a visitor came
for at once.
The spring
The oasis is fed by a warm source, and the pool it feeds is open-air, palm-shaded and
swimmable all year. Guests write about it more than about anything else on these itineraries,
including the film sets. On a day tour the stop is long — three hours on the most-reviewed of them
— and the water is what most of that time goes on.
Pack a swimsuit and a towel even if the tour description does not tell you to.
The fort
A short walk out into the sand from the oasis stands Tisavar, a Roman frontier fort built
between 180 and 192 CE: a rectangular stone enclosure roughly 30 by 40 metres with corner
towers and a central temple, part of the line the empire drew across the desert. Most tours
give you free time rather than a guided visit, so it is worth knowing what you are looking at
before you walk out.
Getting there
Ksar Ghilane is connected to Douz, 80km north, by asphalt — which is how the western
itineraries arrive. The tours on this page mostly come the other way, from Djerba and
Zarzis across the Dahar, and the last stretch of that approach is a desert track. That is
why everything here runs in a 4x4 and why no coach tour reaches the oasis.
Four hours each way from the island makes it a long but genuine day trip. From the northern
resorts it is not a day trip at all.
Which tour to book
The most-reviewed desert tour in our catalogue goes here: a 4x4 day from Djerba by way of Ksar
Hadada and Guermassa, three hours at the oasis, lunch included, $69 per person, 4.8 out of 5
from 1,671 guests.
The small-group Ksar Ghilane and Matmata tour, also $69, takes the western line instead —
Toujane, a Berber family’s cave house at Matmata with tea and homemade bread, then the oasis.
It runs in jeeps with a small group and is the better pick if you want Matmata in the same day.
The Djerba and Zarzis Sahara tour at $68 deliberately trades stops for a longer stay at
the oasis, which suits anyone who would rather sit still in one extraordinary place than
photograph four.
For the night rather than the afternoon, the two-day 4x4 with a camp at $48 and the
sunset-and-sunrise tent night
at $144 both build around the same oasis.
One honest caveat
The oasis is popular, and in high season the pool has people in it. What it does not have is
a resort — the camps are low, the palms are real, and fifty metres past the last tent there
is nothing but sand in every direction. Most reviews that mention crowds still rate the stop
highly for exactly that reason.