Djerba is the closest Tunisian beach base to the Sahara, which is why a real desert day trip
works from here and not from the northern resorts. The island sits on the edge of the south:
cross the Roman causeway to the mainland and the oasis at Ksar Ghilane is about four hours
away, against six or seven from Hammamet or Sousse. Zarzis, on the coast opposite, shares the
same departures. That is the difference between a day out and an overnight expedition, and
it is why forty-nine of the tours we track leave from Djerba or Zarzis.
The choice on the island is not really which operator. It is which direction.
West to Matmata, or south to Tataouine
Go west and you cross to Toujane and Matmata, where houses are dug down into the ground
around open pits and the Sidi Idriss hotel still has the room that was the Lars homestead
interior in A New Hope. That direction continues to Ksar Ghilane — a real Sahara oasis with
a spring-fed pool warm enough to swim in, a dune field, and the Roman fort of Tisavar half
buried in sand a short walk away.
Go south and you reach Tataouine, the town that gave the planet Tatooine its name, and
the ksour around it: fortified granaries of stacked vaulted cells, several storeys high. That
direction also picks up Chenini, a Berber village built in tiers up a ridge and still
lived in, which is not a filming location and is the stop reviewers praise most.
Almost every day trip does one or the other. If you want both, the overnight tours are the
ones that manage it.
What to book
The most-reviewed desert tour in our catalogue leaves from here: a 4x4 day to Ksar Ghilane by
way of Ksar Hadada and Guermassa, $69 per person, 4.8 out of 5 from 1,671 guests, with lunch
and three hours at the oasis. If you book one thing from Djerba, that is the default.
For the same money the small-group Ksar Ghilane and Matmata tour at $69 goes west instead
— Toujane, a Berber family’s cave house, tea, then the oasis. It is the better pick if
Matmata matters to you more than the ksour.
For the southern direction, the Tataouine, Chenini and Berber day tour at $57 is the
best-reviewed at 289 ratings, and the guided Tataouine and Chenini full-day tour at the
same price is the coach-based version for anyone who would rather not spend a day in a jeep.
The overnight versions are cheaper than you expect
Because there is so little transfer to pay for, the two-day tour from Djerba with a night at
a desert camp costs $48 — less than a third of the equivalent from Hammamet, and less
than the day trips from the island itself. It covers Tataouine, Chenini, the Ksar Ghilane
hot spring, a camp night, then Matmata and Toujane on day two.
If the desert at night is the reason you came, that is the listing to look at first. The
desert camping tours page has the rest of them.
Practicalities on the island
Pickups run 6am to 7am, from anywhere on Djerba and in Zarzis. Days are long — ten to twelve
hours is normal — and the last stretch to the oasis is rough ground; several operators say
plainly that their desert legs do not suit back problems, and at least one asks pregnant
travellers not to book. Bring a swimsuit: the hot spring is the thing everyone remembers.